Die sehen so aus als würden die etwas schneiden^^
Both edges were reverse chesthair whittling sharp, and the owner was happy.
He likes his edges to look somewhat like a factory edge, and he also wants to have a lot of bite in them.
Weshalb SB-250 Blackstone? Ist der nicht für extrem harte Stähle und ein bisschen derb für Messer?
The SB-250 black silicon carbide stone gives much better results on harder steel types that are also hard wearing, meaning filled with lots of carbides.
Black silicon carbide @ ~2480 Knoop is also quite a lot harder than aluminium oxide @ ~2100 on the Knoop scale.
The stone also has a harder type of binder (which will not dissolve in water overnight), but due to this on low alloy steel types it's surface tends to glaze much sooner compared to the SG-250 stone.
To help counter the glazing i often use a bit of detergent in the water trough, which helps quite a bit to keep the stone clean & cutting.
To refresh and/or adapt the stone surface to my needs once in a while i use a fine diamond plate or coarse diamond file clamped in the SE-76 square edge jig, and sometimes the TT50 truing tool.
The surface of the SB-250 stone can vary quite a bit in coarseness (i had to google the German word "derb"), as just after using the TT50 trueing tool it can be very coarse (which is useful for reprofiling) but after several knives the surface automatically gets a lot finer due to the friable nature of silicon carbide (which is useful for sharpening without removing too much steel)
The standard SG-250 aluminium oxide stone works much better on low alloy steel types, even if these are very hard.
This stone has a much softer binder and doesn't tend to glaze easy, but do not let it sit in water overnight as the binder will dissolve.
The result is that the next day when you start using it again the part of the stone that has been submerged will shed it's grit much more quickly than the rest of the stone, which will lead in no-time to an out-of-round stone.
Auf den Bildern sieht es so aus als würde der Grad zur Spitze etwas breiter werden was mir persönlich besser gefällt.
When using the platform this depends for the most part on the shape & thickness of the blade nearing the point.
On full flat ground blades that also have a distal taper (like the PM2) the bevel width stays about the same along the entire edge.
On saber ground blades that have (almost) no distal taper (like the BM mini-griptilian) there will indeed be a certain widening of the bevels towards the point.
Wenn man bei der Tormek zur Spitze hin nur den Messergriff etwas anhebt dann läuft der Grad absolut gleichmäßig durch was mir bei meinem Sebenza nicht gefallen hat.
The problem when you do this is that while the bevel width will look even all along the edge, the edge angle can also get progressively larger towards the point.
Sebenza factory edges (and many others) are notorious for this (even though they are done on a belt), and many need a resharpening to cut well, often straight from the store.
Look into my Paper Wheel thread for a few examples.
Ich habe auch inzwischen festgestellt dass man freihändig extrem gute Ergebnisse mit der Tormek erzielen kann.
Very true, all it takes is practice.
Da ich aber die Tormek wollte um möglichst präzise Winkel zu bekommen (freihändig kommt immer der gleiche Winkel raus^^) hat mir das Thema "Klemme" keine Ruhe gelassen. Ich habe mir inzwischen die
KAZAK-Klemme für meine Tormek angepasst und schärfe damit meine etwas dickeren Messer und es funktioniert wirklich gut.
Never seen those KAZAK clamps before, could you show some pictures on how you use one of these on your Tormek ?